A little guide to Temples and Shrines
Just imagine this: You’re strolling along the streets of some Japanese town at dusk. As usual, the streets are narrow, framed by houses that stand unreasonably close together and once in a while in the gaps between them you get a glimpse of the blooming hydrangea, the ultimate herald of summer. The crickets are humming their tune, and even though it is 梅雨 (tsuyu) , the time of the plum rain, it has decided to stop for some time. The light is still there, but ever so slightly disappearing. You turn a corner and find a huge gate in front of you. It might be wooden or made of stone. In full light it would probably be bright red, but now, its color seems slightly deeper. And you can’t help but wonder what lies beyond. Should you venture forth?
This is a not unlikely scenario in Japan. With its multitude of temples and shrines scattered along roads, hidden in neighbourhoods, from the busy streets of Tokyo to the most remote mountain paths, you will find them.
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So, today I wanted to share a little guide about shrines and temples. This is by no means everything there is to know. If there’s one thing about Japanese customs, it is that it’s incredibly varied and complicated. Rather, I wanted to tell you the things I would tell my friends or family.
Hints in Names of Temples and Shrines
Have you ever heard of Senso-Ji ? Or Meiji Jingu? Or maybe Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion? All of them are popular tourist attractions and obviously carry religious importance. So they probably also came up in your search for the must see temples/shrines of Japan.
But how do you know if you are in a Buddhist Temple or a Shinto Shrine? The first hint lies in the name. Is there a -ji, a -tera/dera or an -in at the end of the name? Then, you’re most likely visiting a temple. A Buddhist temple to be precise.
For anyone actually interested in the Kanji, it’s this one: 寺, if you want to know more about Kanji, I wrote a post about that: Why Reading in Japan is Hard.
Why do we need to clarify this? Because a Shrine 神社 (Jinja) is a place for Shinto Kami (mostly translated as Gods, but it’s a bit more complicated than that).
The kanji 神 literally translate to gods, mind, soul and 社 to company, firm, office, association, shrine. Obviously the best translation would be god’s shrine, but I love the fact that the second kanji can be read as office or company, too. Just imagine a God working hard at their shrine.
And here too, you can find clues in the name: Is a gongen, -gū, jinja, jingū, mori, myōjin, -sha, taisha, ubusuna, or yashiro attached? Then you’re most likely at a shrine. These differences in name are related to the type of shrine and show how Shinto is just so difficult to define in simple terms. Honestly, telling you about the differences would be a bit much for now. I just want to note that the argument has been made that the term Shinto shrine is simplifying the various traditions of worship in Shinto and making it seem like such Shrines are in some way inferior to temples.
Shintō and Buddhism
So what is the difference between the two religions? Let’s just say, it’s complicated. (It really, really is.)
Buddhism exists in many different forms and teachings in various countries. It came all the way from India over China and Korea to Japan. In the Nihon Shoki (basically the chronicles of Japan, written in the 8th century) it dates its arrival to the 6th century. From then on it spread through Japan and developed its own distinct styles, like Japanese Zen.
Shinto, on the other hand, is Japan’s indigenous religion. It is a so-called animistic religion, meaning everything can have a soul to some degree. The old tree you see over there? That’s the home of a kami. The all-mighty Fuji-san? She’s the home of kami, too. However, shinto doesn’t have a real codex as such. It has various forms and rituals. One of the more distinct features of shrines are the mostly red torii gates that you see on every book, brochure or website related to Japan. The sign for a shrine on Google Maps is also a Torii, while the buddhist one is the sun wheel.
To simplify, at some point the two religions just kinda mixed. While this might seem strange for people who grew up Christian like me, in Japan it really seems natural for the two to flow into each other. This is also reflected in the way shrines and temples are built. While there are some buildings, statues etc. that can give you strong hints, you might, for example, find komainu and lanterns at both. And sometimes there is no real distinction between the two, maybe you just find yourself at a place making offerings to both religions. (Note how in the screenshot you can find a temple right next to a shrine…)
So yeah. You have a bunch of red Torii gates lined up? Probably a shrine. You find slightly scary-looking statues with weird skin colours? Temple. You have a place to light incense? Temple. You have a station to cleanse yourself before entering a place? Yeah, that could be both, even though it is more often found at shrines. If there’s some sort of garden, or a longer passage walkway, or a place you can somehow physically enter? Temple. A pagoda? Temple again.
If you want to know more about Shintō, its Gods, stories and origins, or if you’re in the mood for a bit of a deep dive into the difference to Buddhism:
So, what are they for?
Temples and Shrines can be dedicated to various Gods. Some might be good for health or childbirth, others might help you with success at work or school or getting concert tickets. The Gods can help you with everything. But beyond the famous temples there are, or the temples you go to for specific purposes, I would recommend to just go and explore a bit. As mentioned there are many, many shrines and temples, some are tiny (the so-called hokora 祠) and some are huge. They shape Japan in a distinct way and I always feel they also give it a magical touch, especially the ones you find in more unassuming places.
Credit: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:2016_0605_Fukuo_Shrine_Jizo.jpg
The Dos and Don’ts
A shinto shrine is the “home” of a God, so you better behave. Obviously this is also the case for buddhist temples. After all, both are places of worship. So, let’s get into it.
A shinto shrine is the “home” of a God, so you better behave. Obviously this is also the case for buddhist temples. After all, both are places of worship. So, let’s get into it.
I want to preface this with some very general advice: PAY ATTENTION. Look around you. What are the locals doing? Where are they going? Are they loud? Quiet? If they are not doing something, you’re probably not supposed to do it either and vice versa. Does that mean every Japanese person does everything perfectly? No. Is it still a good bet to follow their behaviours? Yes, most definitely.
The Dos
Short Summary of the Dos
- Be respectful
- Clean Your Hands and Mouth (Mostly at Shrines, but sometimes at temples, too)
- Pray: Throw coin, bow, clap (Shinto), pray, bow
Be Respectful
Just be respectful. Things you wouldn’t do in a church or your chosen place of worship? Don’t do them here either. Don’t scream too loudly or run around like crazy. Also, if you can, don’t wear clothes that are too revealing and take your hat off if you’re entering a buddhist temple.
Another aspect of respect is bowing before entering through a torii gate and when leaving. The torii actually has an important symbolic meaning. It represents the transition from our world to another. Normally, you bow towards the honden (本殿 ; meaning the main hall, where the God is enshrined), so basically towards the inside of a shrine. Once again, entering a shrine means entering the realm of a God, it would be impolite not to greet them. Also, this does not apply to Buddhist temples. I like to lower my head a bit when entering through the first main gate, but that might just be me.
Clean Your Hands and Mouth (Mostly at Shrines, but sometimes at temples, too)
Most shrines have a fountain (手水舎 temizuya) near the entrance. They are used to help you purify yourself before entering, because the concept of purity is very important in Shinto, in general. It is also considered impure to enter shrines with open wounds or while on your period.
For more popular ones there usually are instructions, so you don’t even fully have to remember the correct order and such. There’s usually a ladle, putting in your hands directly into the fountain’s a no-no. However in case there aren’t, (and there’s no one to ask or watch) here you go:
- Scoop or collect water with the ladle in your (right?) hand.
- Pour it over your left hand. Do the same thing for your left hand.
- Rinse your mouth using your now clean (left?) hand. Spit out the water. (Obviously not into the fountain)
- Rinse your left hand again. Put the ladle back.
- Yay, you’re clean!
Side Note: I’m not too sure if it is a requirement to do left, right, left, but the left side is usually considered the superior one.
Praying
Praying is slightly different for shrines and temples. For both you will find an offering box to throw coins into.:
A) Shrines
Throw a coin into the offering box (either a 1 or 5 yen, 5 is considered especially lucky).
I actually wrote a little thing about that, too: The Meaning of Numbers in Japan
Bow deeply twice.
Now, clap your hands twice or, if there is one, ring a bell. This is done to wake up those kami, otherwise how are they supposed to hear your prayers or wishes?
Make your wish or pray (keeping your hands folded).
Then, to say goodbye, you bow once more. With a bit of luck, maybe your wishes will be fulfilled.
B) Temples
When entering don’t step on the threshold. enter left foot first as a man
You’re actually not supposed to clap at temples (maybe buddhist gods don’t need to be woken up?), but my friend told me a lot of Japanese people don’t know that either so they just do it anyways.
Put a coin in the offering box.
Bow your head and pray silently.
I do see most people bow after they have finished praying, but I’m not too sure it’s a requirement.
Photo by Nguyen Hung on Pexels.com
Photo by Joshua Eghelshi on Pexels.com
The Don’ts
Short Summary of the Don’ts
- Don’t Walk in the Middle
- Don’t Take Pictures of, or Touch Things
- Don’t Eat, Smoke, or Talk Loudly
- Don’t Enter Shrines at Night
Don’t walk in the middle of the road in a shrine (the one with the Torii)
I see people do this all the time. And, I get it. It’s tempting to walk in the middle, especially if it’s a bigger shrine with a nice, wide road. However, you’re not supposed to walk there. Only Gods do. Very simple.
The next two kind of fall under common sense/ would you do it in your own place of worship territory, but I’ll still write them down in case:
Don’t take pictures of, or touch things you’re not supposed to
Sometimes taking pictures, especially of inner sanctuaries, is not allowed, but there tend to be signs if that’s the case. If there aren’t, once again, look around you. What are other people doing?
On the same note, don’t touch things that don’t seem like they should be touched and don’t enter off-limits areas. Common sense.
Don’t Eat, Smoke, or Talk Loudly
Self explanatory.
Don’t enter shrines at night
Other than the obvious danger of tripping at night or encountering animals.
Why you shouldn’t visit shrines at night (and other superstitions)
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